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Maremma

The Maremma is Tuscany like you've never seen it before. Far from the hustle and bustle of more popular tourist haunts like Florence and Siena is the Tuscan Maremma, an area that stretches along the coast of Lazio and Tuscany. Here, rocky outcrops rise above golden plains that stretch toward the sea. The word Maremma derives from the Latin maritima, meaning "of the sea and the coastline," and over time it became used as a proper noun for this unique area.

Cycling in Porto, Portugal

The inland of the Maremma is characterized by stretches of plains, used to raise livestock. The area is known for its cattle and the cowboys who tend them, known as Butteri. Legend has it that when Buffalo Bill came to Italy in 1890, he made a bet with a local Duke about who were the better horsemen, the Americans in his troupe, or the local Butteri. The Italian legend recounts that they won the challenge easily, thanks to the leadership of an especially gifted Buttero named Augusto Imperiali. It is also said that Buffalo Bill never paid up for losing the bet. On the other hand, American historians claim the opposite: that the Italian cowboys were unable to tame the horses within a reasonable time, meaning that the Americans won by default.

The history of the Butteri isn't all this land has to offer. There is a peaceful, long coastline lined with maritime pine forests and rolling sand dunes. Just imagine pedaling along pine-scented roads flanked by dunes and shimmering coastline. Craggy hills rise above the coast, giving way to expanses of wild plains, where cattle graze, and the few modern Butteri continue to tend their herds. The farther you get from the sea, the plains begin to turn into steep hills, reminiscent of the classic Tuscan countryside. From the coast to the internal areas of the Maremma, there are quiet villages to explore that hide layers of history. Medieval structures lay over the remnants of Etruscan settlements that once dotted the landscape.

 

What might a bike tour of this area look like?

We would recommend a few days on the seaside, getting a feel for the sleepy coastal towns, and indulging in fresh local seafood. The landscape is hilly near the sea, and rides will meander through scrubby forests and up and down rolling hills. Leaving the seaside behind, you'll enter the wild Maremma. Rocky hills loom over the plains, with medieval towns perched on top. Towns like Roccatederighi and Volterra have great cycling nearby, and lots of history to discover. No tour of the Maremma would be complete without a stop in the thermal town of Saturnia. It's home to natural thermal springs where legend tells us the god Saturn, weary of human conflict, struck the earth to release warm, healing waters, offering peace to humankind.

 

What do you think? Ready to take on the wilds of The Maremma?

 

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